Common iPhone faults and fixes: one sourced database

1. Test each output separately: earpiece on a call, loudspeaker on speakerphone, plus Siri and media.
2. Inspect the speaker and microphone cables and connectors for liquid, corrosion, damage or bent pins; minor corrosion can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.
3. Clear grills with Blu Tack or tape, not compressed air (it pushes dust into the speaker).
4. After a screen replacement: transfer the black proximity adhesive, check the front flex for tears, reseat the connector at the correct angle; replace the earpiece last.
5. Microphones: Voice Memos fail only = bottom microphone; video fail only = top microphones; only one app fails = Settings > Privacy & Security > Microphone for that app.
6. Replace the faulty speaker or receiver with a known-good part; if the fault stays, go to the board path.

Limits

• On iPhone 13 the receiver is no longer attached to the display; the field answer says the logic board has to come out to remove it.

Source: iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone No Sound · iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 Plus earpiece does not work after screen replacement (solved) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: can't hear phone calls unless on speakerphone · Apple Support - If the microphones on your iPhone aren't working

1. Confirm: call 611 (or any number) and watch for a greyed speaker button; Voice Memos behaviour varies by iOS (11: greyed button, 12: error pop-up, 13 to 14: recording does not start).
2. Cause: C12 carries the master clock line and is the only pad with a thin trace crossing the board flex "fault line"; flexing separates the pad.
3. Lift U3101. C12 jumper: scrape the trace from C12 towards R1103, tin it, solder a jumper, cover with UV mask.
4. D12 jumper: staple-shaped wire from D12 to G12 (up, 90° right, 90° down), clear of nearby parts, UV mask on top.
5. Optional jumpers if those pads are lost: F12 to C3220, H12 to R3103, J12 to R3104.
6. Reball and refit the original U3101 unless it was damaged on removal; leave slight slack in the wire so the board can flex.

Limits

• Repair Wiki states the root cause is the pads, not a bad audio IC: replacing the chip alone does not address it.
• Apple stopped its out-of-warranty repair exceptions for this symptom in July 2018 (it was never a formal program).
• The US class-action settlement (Tabak v. Apple, $35 million; Apple denied wrongdoing) closed claims on 3 June 2024 and did not cover India.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone 7 with grayed out speaker icon, audio IC repair · iPad Rehab - iPhone 7 audio problems (C12 pad, master clock line) · MacRumors - Apple no longer offering free out-of-warranty repairs of iPhone 7 models with grayed-out speaker button (2018-07-17) · Macworld - iPhone 7 audio settlement (Tabak v. Apple, N.D. Cal. 4:19-cv-02455)

1. Rule out the parts first: known-good speaker, receiver and flex, connectors clean.
2. Examine the board for physical damage, liquid or burn marks.
3. If every audio function fails on cellular calls but VoIP and Bluetooth work after a drop, the solved XS case points to the audio IC or separation between the board layers.
4. Repair by microsoldering or replace the logic board; use the boardview of the exact board for designators.

Limits

• Only the iPhone 7 has a published pad-level guide in the reviewed sources; other models have no designators here.

Source: iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone No Sound · iFixit Answers - iPhone XS: no sound / microphone on cellular calls, VoIP works (solved)

1. Rule out the parts first: known-good speaker, receiver and flex, connectors clean.
2. Examine the board for physical damage, liquid or burn marks.
3. If every audio function fails on cellular calls but VoIP and Bluetooth work after a drop, the solved XS case points to the audio IC or separation between the board layers.
4. Repair by microsoldering or replace the logic board; use the boardview of the exact board for designators.

Limits

• Only the iPhone 7 has a published pad-level guide in the reviewed sources; other models have no designators here.

Source: iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone No Sound · iFixit Answers - iPhone XS: no sound / microphone on cellular calls, VoIP works (solved)

1. Confirm the headphone icon on the volume slider with nothing connected.
2. Remove any lodged headphone-plug fragment with an extraction tool.
3. Clean dust or corrosion from the jack / port.
4. Replace the jack if the detection remains.

Source: iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone No Sound

1. Test each output separately: earpiece on a call, loudspeaker on speakerphone, plus Siri and media.
2. Inspect the speaker and microphone cables and connectors for liquid, corrosion, damage or bent pins; minor corrosion can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.
3. Clear grills with Blu Tack or tape, not compressed air (it pushes dust into the speaker).
4. After a screen replacement: transfer the black proximity adhesive, check the front flex for tears, reseat the connector at the correct angle; replace the earpiece last.
5. Microphones: Voice Memos fail only = bottom microphone; video fail only = top microphones; only one app fails = Settings > Privacy & Security > Microphone for that app.
6. Replace the faulty speaker or receiver with a known-good part; if the fault stays, go to the board path.

Limits

• On iPhone 13 the receiver is no longer attached to the display; the field answer says the logic board has to come out to remove it.

Source: iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone No Sound · iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 Plus earpiece does not work after screen replacement (solved) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: can't hear phone calls unless on speakerphone · Apple Support - If the microphones on your iPhone aren't working

1. Test each output separately: earpiece on a call, loudspeaker on speakerphone, plus Siri and media.
2. Inspect the speaker and microphone cables and connectors for liquid, corrosion, damage or bent pins; minor corrosion can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.
3. Clear grills with Blu Tack or tape, not compressed air (it pushes dust into the speaker).
4. After a screen replacement: transfer the black proximity adhesive, check the front flex for tears, reseat the connector at the correct angle; replace the earpiece last.
5. Microphones: Voice Memos fail only = bottom microphone; video fail only = top microphones; only one app fails = Settings > Privacy & Security > Microphone for that app.
6. Replace the faulty speaker or receiver with a known-good part; if the fault stays, go to the board path.

Limits

• On iPhone 13 the receiver is no longer attached to the display; the field answer says the logic board has to come out to remove it.

Source: iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone No Sound · iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 Plus earpiece does not work after screen replacement (solved) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: can't hear phone calls unless on speakerphone · Apple Support - If the microphones on your iPhone aren't working

1. Apple: only technicians with the knowledge and experience to repair electronic devices should replace a battery; risks include fire, injury, data loss or device damage.
2. Stretch-release strips (for example iPhone 15 Pro Max manual): peel each adhesive tab with ESD-safe tweezers, twisting it around the tweezers.
3. iPhone 16 and 16 Plus only: the adhesive is released electrically; Apple specifies 9 V (iFixit: 20 V released it in about 5 s, 5 V took just over 6 minutes). Polarity matters, and the adhesive is single-use (the replacement battery has its own).
4. Before closing, check for loose or extra screws and small parts that can damage the battery.
5. Run Repair Assistant after reassembly (iPhone 12 and later, SE 3rd gen).

Limits

• iPhone 16 Pro / Pro Max keep stretch-release strips; do not apply voltage to them.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone 15 Pro Max battery (repair manual procedure) · iFixit News - We hot wired the iPhone 16 (electrically released battery adhesive) · Apple Support - Use Repair Assistant to finish an iPhone or iPad repair

1. iPhone 15 and later (iOS 17.4+): Settings > Battery > Battery Health shows capacity, cycle count, manufacture date and first-use date. iPhone 11 to 14: Battery Health & Charging shows capacity and peak performance.
2. Maximum Capacity is relative to new. Rating: 80% at 500 full cycles (iPhone 14 and earlier) or 1000 (iPhone 15 and later), under ideal conditions.
3. Peak Performance Capability: normal peak performance; performance management applied after an unexpected shutdown (the user can turn it off); significantly degraded, service recommended; or unable to verify a genuine battery (iPhone XS and later).
4. Performance management per Apple: iPhone 6 to 7 Plus and SE (1st gen) first; iPhone 8 / 8 Plus / X from iOS 12.1; XS, XS Max, XR from iOS 13.1; iPhone 11 and later use a newer system.
5. iPhone 11, 11 Pro, 11 Pro Max on iOS 14.5+: a recalibration message may show for a few weeks; afterwards a degraded or unsuccessful result gets a free battery replacement from Apple.

Limits

• Battery Health figures may be inaccurate when the battery cannot be verified as genuine.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone battery and performance (Battery Health, peak performance, performance management) · Apple Support - About the battery and performance of iPhone 11 and later · Apple Support - About recalibration of battery health reporting in iOS 14.5 or later (iPhone 11) · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone batteries

1. iPhone 15 and later (iOS 17.4+): Settings > Battery > Battery Health shows capacity, cycle count, manufacture date and first-use date. iPhone 11 to 14: Battery Health & Charging shows capacity and peak performance.
2. Maximum Capacity is relative to new. Rating: 80% at 500 full cycles (iPhone 14 and earlier) or 1000 (iPhone 15 and later), under ideal conditions.
3. Peak Performance Capability: normal peak performance; performance management applied after an unexpected shutdown (the user can turn it off); significantly degraded, service recommended; or unable to verify a genuine battery (iPhone XS and later).
4. Performance management per Apple: iPhone 6 to 7 Plus and SE (1st gen) first; iPhone 8 / 8 Plus / X from iOS 12.1; XS, XS Max, XR from iOS 13.1; iPhone 11 and later use a newer system.
5. iPhone 11, 11 Pro, 11 Pro Max on iOS 14.5+: a recalibration message may show for a few weeks; afterwards a degraded or unsuccessful result gets a free battery replacement from Apple.

Limits

• Battery Health figures may be inaccurate when the battery cannot be verified as genuine.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone battery and performance (Battery Health, peak performance, performance management) · Apple Support - About the battery and performance of iPhone 11 and later · Apple Support - About recalibration of battery health reporting in iOS 14.5 or later (iPhone 11) · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone batteries

1. Settings > General > About > Parts and service history (iPhone XR and later).
2. Genuine: Apple part and process. Used (iPhone 15 and later, iOS 18): installed in another iPhone before. Finish Repair: new Apple battery not yet completed. Unknown: not genuine, not working as expected, not verified and linked, or modified.
3. Repair Assistant (iPhone 12 and later, SE 3rd gen): Settings > General > About > Parts & Service History > Restart & Finish Repair.
4. Requirements: Wi-Fi (not a captive network), battery above 20%, latest iOS.

Limits

• An Unknown status can affect trade-in value; Apple warns non-genuine batteries may affect safety (overheating, fire or injury).

Source: Apple Support - About genuine iPhone batteries · Apple Support - Use Repair Assistant to finish an iPhone or iPad repair

1. Settings > General > About > Parts and service history (iPhone XR and later).
2. Genuine: Apple part and process. Used (iPhone 15 and later, iOS 18): installed in another iPhone before. Finish Repair: new Apple battery not yet completed. Unknown: not genuine, not working as expected, not verified and linked, or modified.
3. Repair Assistant (iPhone 12 and later, SE 3rd gen): Settings > General > About > Parts & Service History > Restart & Finish Repair.
4. Requirements: Wi-Fi (not a captive network), battery above 20%, latest iOS.

Limits

• An Unknown status can affect trade-in value; Apple warns non-genuine batteries may affect safety (overheating, fire or injury).

Source: Apple Support - About genuine iPhone batteries · Apple Support - Use Repair Assistant to finish an iPhone or iPad repair

1. Disconnect and reseat the battery connector: a drop can shift it by half a millimetre; this alone fixed both field cases.
2. Inspect the connector and nearby parts for pry damage from screen or housing work.
3. The battery reports to the board over BATT_SWI (iPhone 7 case). On iPhone 8 / 8 Plus / X the data runs as HDQ through two small MOSFETs to the Tigris charging IC, which passes it to the CPU.
4. Knocked-off MOSFETs, a damaged connector or a damaged Tigris need microsoldering; confirm with a known-good battery first.

Limits

• In the iPhone 8 case the phone also failed to enter DFU, rebooted on charge and gave restore error 9; the charging page covers the Tigris side.

Source: iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 won't charge past 3% (solved) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 8 only shows 1% battery after screen replacement (solved)

1. Do not charge the phone; discharge it as low as possible.
2. Work in a ventilated area with eye protection and gloves; use plastic tools only so the cell is not punctured.
3. If it heats, smells or smokes, move it outside or into a fireproof container.
4. Take the battery to an e-waste collection point; never household trash or recycling, and do not ship it without authorisation.

Source: iFixit Wiki - What to do with a swollen battery

1. iPhone 15 and later (iOS 17.4+): Settings > Battery > Battery Health shows capacity, cycle count, manufacture date and first-use date. iPhone 11 to 14: Battery Health & Charging shows capacity and peak performance.
2. Maximum Capacity is relative to new. Rating: 80% at 500 full cycles (iPhone 14 and earlier) or 1000 (iPhone 15 and later), under ideal conditions.
3. Peak Performance Capability: normal peak performance; performance management applied after an unexpected shutdown (the user can turn it off); significantly degraded, service recommended; or unable to verify a genuine battery (iPhone XS and later).
4. Performance management per Apple: iPhone 6 to 7 Plus and SE (1st gen) first; iPhone 8 / 8 Plus / X from iOS 12.1; XS, XS Max, XR from iOS 13.1; iPhone 11 and later use a newer system.
5. iPhone 11, 11 Pro, 11 Pro Max on iOS 14.5+: a recalibration message may show for a few weeks; afterwards a degraded or unsuccessful result gets a free battery replacement from Apple.

Limits

• Battery Health figures may be inaccurate when the battery cannot be verified as genuine.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone battery and performance (Battery Health, peak performance, performance management) · Apple Support - About the battery and performance of iPhone 11 and later · Apple Support - About recalibration of battery health reporting in iOS 14.5 or later (iPhone 11) · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone batteries

1. Force restart with the buttons for this model; charge for one hour and try again.
2. Low-battery icon shown: check the hardware and charge 30 minutes or until it starts.
3. Still dead: continue on the No Power page (/iphone-no-power.html) and the Charging page.

Source: Apple Support - If your iPhone won't turn on or is frozen (force restart)

1. Force restart / recovery buttons. iPhone 8 and later (incl. SE 2nd gen and later): press and release Volume Up, press and release Volume Down, hold the side button. iPhone 7 / 7 Plus: hold side and Volume Down. iPhone 6s and earlier (incl. SE 1st gen): hold Home and the side / top button.
2. Unresponsive: charge for one hour and force restart again; with a low-battery icon, charge 30 minutes or until it starts.
3. Apple logo: a long logo is normal during restore or migration on iOS 13+; act if the progress bar has not moved for at least one hour.
4. Recovery mode with Finder (macOS 10.15+), iTunes, or the Apple Devices app on Windows: choose Update first (keeps data), then Restore (erases all data).
5. If the download takes more than 15 minutes the phone may leave recovery mode: let the download finish and repeat the button steps.

Limits

• A failing restore gives an error code: decode it on the Restore page before opening the phone.

Source: Apple Support - If your iPhone won't turn on or is frozen (force restart) · Apple Support - If your iPhone freezes on the Apple logo · Apple Support - If you can't update or restore your iPhone (recovery mode) · Apple Support - If the Restore screen appears on your iPhone, iPad or iPod touch

1. Why: the CPU needs periodic sensor (thermal) data; with none for three minutes it panics and reboots (about 180 s).
2. Open Settings > Privacy & Security > Analytics & Improvements > Analytics Data and the newest panic-full file. Look for "Missing sensor(s)", "thermalmonitord" / "missing gas gauge temperature service", or on iPhone 13 and later "SMC PANIC - ASSERT" with a sensor-array code.
3. Paste the log into the AIFlasher Panic Analyzer (/iphone-panic.html): codes are per model, and several codes can be added together in one value.
4. Sensors sit in the battery, charge-port flex, power-button flex, front sensor flex, wireless-charging parts and on the board itself (NTC lines).
5. Fix in order: replace the part for that sensor with a tested OEM part; inspect its connector for widened or damaged pins; diode-mode the connector lines for shorts or opens; then board work (NTC lines, data chips such as Tigris).

Limits

• Keep every flex connected while testing: an unplugged flex itself causes the loop.
• New aftermarket flexes are often defective; keep known-good OEM flexes for bench swaps.
• iFixit: reading panic logs is not an exact science; replace, then confirm with a new log.

Source: iPad Rehab - Troubleshooting iPhone reboot problems (missing thermal data, 3-minute loop) · iFixit Wiki - iPhone SMC panic assert · iFixit Wiki - iPhone kernel panics · Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 16 that randomly restarts

1. ANS2: the storage controller / NAND is failing; needs microsoldering and a data transfer to a new NAND (see the NAND page).
2. i2c: communication between the CPU and a component chip fails; identify the channel and part with the schematic.
3. AOP "NMI POWER": often the power-button cable or the front camera assembly. AOP Bosch control failure: speaker / charge-port flex; replace the component.
4. iPhone 16 (Repair Wiki): a battery data-line fault restarts at variable times and shows 1% or 0%; board-layer (sandwich) separation also restarts at variable times. See the Battery page for the data line.

Limits

• Decode the exact string in the Panic Analyzer: family names are generic, the cause is model-specific.

Source: iFixit Wiki - iPhone kernel panics · Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 16 that randomly restarts

1. Force restart / recovery buttons. iPhone 8 and later (incl. SE 2nd gen and later): press and release Volume Up, press and release Volume Down, hold the side button. iPhone 7 / 7 Plus: hold side and Volume Down. iPhone 6s and earlier (incl. SE 1st gen): hold Home and the side / top button.
2. Unresponsive: charge for one hour and force restart again; with a low-battery icon, charge 30 minutes or until it starts.
3. Apple logo: a long logo is normal during restore or migration on iOS 13+; act if the progress bar has not moved for at least one hour.
4. Recovery mode with Finder (macOS 10.15+), iTunes, or the Apple Devices app on Windows: choose Update first (keeps data), then Restore (erases all data).
5. If the download takes more than 15 minutes the phone may leave recovery mode: let the download finish and repeat the button steps.

Limits

• A failing restore gives an error code: decode it on the Restore page before opening the phone.

Source: Apple Support - If your iPhone won't turn on or is frozen (force restart) · Apple Support - If your iPhone freezes on the Apple logo · Apple Support - If you can't update or restore your iPhone (recovery mode) · Apple Support - If the Restore screen appears on your iPhone, iPad or iPod touch

1. Check every flex is connected and seated, including the charge-port flex (bottom microphone / air-pressure sensor module) and the wireless-charging flex to the back glass.
2. Swap in tested OEM flexes one at a time; aftermarket flexes frequently arrive defective.
3. Read a fresh panic log after each change.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 16 that randomly restarts

1. Why: the CPU needs periodic sensor (thermal) data; with none for three minutes it panics and reboots (about 180 s).
2. Open Settings > Privacy & Security > Analytics & Improvements > Analytics Data and the newest panic-full file. Look for "Missing sensor(s)", "thermalmonitord" / "missing gas gauge temperature service", or on iPhone 13 and later "SMC PANIC - ASSERT" with a sensor-array code.
3. Paste the log into the AIFlasher Panic Analyzer (/iphone-panic.html): codes are per model, and several codes can be added together in one value.
4. Sensors sit in the battery, charge-port flex, power-button flex, front sensor flex, wireless-charging parts and on the board itself (NTC lines).
5. Fix in order: replace the part for that sensor with a tested OEM part; inspect its connector for widened or damaged pins; diode-mode the connector lines for shorts or opens; then board work (NTC lines, data chips such as Tigris).

Limits

• Keep every flex connected while testing: an unplugged flex itself causes the loop.
• New aftermarket flexes are often defective; keep known-good OEM flexes for bench swaps.
• iFixit: reading panic logs is not an exact science; replace, then confirm with a new log.

Source: iPad Rehab - Troubleshooting iPhone reboot problems (missing thermal data, 3-minute loop) · iFixit Wiki - iPhone SMC panic assert · iFixit Wiki - iPhone kernel panics · Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 16 that randomly restarts

1. Diode-mode the main lines, inject into the shorted one, find the hot part: /iphone-no-power.html.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 7 that does not turn on

1. Low start (0.15-0.25 A) or near zero (~2 mA, 30 mA peak): Tristar / Tigris or PMIC; see /iphone-charging.html for the USB-controller and charging-IC split.
2. Rails cycling every ~50 ms: watch the supply (a meter misses it), then check the PMIC reset line to the CPU and I2C lines.

Source: Rossmann Group - Dead iPhone data recovery (DC supply current patterns) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 6s: all power rails power up and down (PMU_TO_SYSTEM_COLD_RESET_L)

1. Low start (0.15-0.25 A) or near zero (~2 mA, 30 mA peak): Tristar / Tigris or PMIC; see /iphone-charging.html for the USB-controller and charging-IC split.
2. Rails cycling every ~50 ms: watch the supply (a meter misses it), then check the PMIC reset line to the CPU and I2C lines.

Source: Rossmann Group - Dead iPhone data recovery (DC supply current patterns) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 6s: all power rails power up and down (PMU_TO_SYSTEM_COLD_RESET_L)

1. Steady 20-40 mA: inspect the coils above the CPU and suspect CPU solder fractures; this is specialist work.

Source: Rossmann Group - Dead iPhone data recovery (DC supply current patterns)

1. Cycling or high hang: thermal camera on the NAND area during a power-on, check the NAND rails listed for the model.
2. DFU only and restore fails: NAND page (/iphone-nand.html); data stays encrypted to this board's Secure Enclave, so a NAND moved to another board is unreadable.

Source: iFixit Guide - iPhone 13 no power easy solution (PP3V0 NAND short) · Rossmann Group - iPhone DFU mode recovery (NAND rails, DFU vs recovery)

1. Cycling or high hang: thermal camera on the NAND area during a power-on, check the NAND rails listed for the model.
2. DFU only and restore fails: NAND page (/iphone-nand.html); data stays encrypted to this board's Secure Enclave, so a NAND moved to another board is unreadable.

Source: iFixit Guide - iPhone 13 no power easy solution (PP3V0 NAND short) · Rossmann Group - iPhone DFU mode recovery (NAND rails, DFU vs recovery)

1. Update first, then Restore; if a restore fails, decode the error on /iphone-restore.html.

Source: Apple Support - If you can't update or restore your iPhone (recovery mode)

1. Logo loop: recovery-mode Update, then the panic log; flexes and ICs that fail to initialise: /iphone-boot.html.

Source: Apple Support - If your iPhone freezes on the Apple logo · Rossmann Group - iPhone boot loop / stuck Apple logo (boot stages)

1. Read the panic-full log and decode it for the exact model: /iphone-panic.html.

Source: iPad Rehab - Troubleshooting iPhone reboot problems (missing thermal data, 3-minute loop)

1. iPhone 14 Plus, rear camera with no preview: units made 10 April 2023 to 28 April 2024, covered 3 years from first retail sale; check the serial number on Apple's program page.
2. Damage that blocks the repair (such as cracked back glass) is fixed first and may cost extra; service may be limited to the country of purchase.
3. iPhone 6 Plus, blurry photos (iSight / OIS): units sold September 2014 to January 2015 had a 3-year program from 2015; it has ended.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone 14 Plus Service Program for Rear Camera Issue · MacRumors - Apple launches iSight Camera Replacement Program for iPhone 6 Plus (2015-08-21)

1. Apple's technician guide: run the Mobile Resource Inspector (MRI) and Camera Image Quality diagnostic suites.
2. Disconnect the battery, then the camera flex cables; inspect the connectors for damage or debris and reseat them by pressing lightly with two fingers.
3. On multi-camera phones disconnect each camera in turn to find the failing one.
4. Clean lenses with a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth; no compressed air.
5. Replace the camera for no preview, persistent blur or quality faults that the suites confirm.
6. If a new camera does not fix focus after a drop (iPhone 13 case), check the board sandwich / I2C2 joints before replacing more parts.

Limits

• iPhone 12 and later (iOS 15.2+): a non-genuine or unfinished camera shows as Unknown; focus, Portrait mode and third-party camera apps can misbehave.
• iPhone 15 and later (iOS 18+): a camera taken from another iPhone shows as Used and may perform inconsistently.
• iPhone 18 Pro: Apple says a new genuine camera must be finished in Repair Assistant before the camera can be used.
• Phones used on high-power motorcycles: Apple advises against mounting them; a vibration-dampening mount or gimbal for lower-vibration vehicles.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone troubleshooting camera issues (technician guide: MRI and Camera Image Quality suites, parts by model) · iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone Camera Black Screen · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone cameras (parts and service history) · Apple Support - Exposure to vibrations, like those from high-powered motorcycle engines, might impact iPhone cameras

1. Apple's technician guide: run the Mobile Resource Inspector (MRI) and Camera Image Quality diagnostic suites.
2. Disconnect the battery, then the camera flex cables; inspect the connectors for damage or debris and reseat them by pressing lightly with two fingers.
3. On multi-camera phones disconnect each camera in turn to find the failing one.
4. Clean lenses with a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth; no compressed air.
5. Replace the camera for no preview, persistent blur or quality faults that the suites confirm.

Limits

• iPhone 12 and later (iOS 15.2+): a non-genuine or unfinished camera shows as Unknown; focus, Portrait mode and third-party camera apps can misbehave.
• iPhone 15 and later (iOS 18+): a camera taken from another iPhone shows as Used and may perform inconsistently.
• iPhone 18 Pro: Apple says a new genuine camera must be finished in Repair Assistant before the camera can be used.
• Phones used on high-power motorcycles: Apple advises against mounting them; a vibration-dampening mount or gimbal for lower-vibration vehicles.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone troubleshooting camera issues (technician guide: MRI and Camera Image Quality suites, parts by model) · iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone Camera Black Screen · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone cameras (parts and service history) · Apple Support - Exposure to vibrations, like those from high-powered motorcycle engines, might impact iPhone cameras

1. Test the flashlight from Control Center; if it works only sometimes, try each flash setting in the Camera app.
2. Part per Apple's guide: back glass on iPhone 14, 14 Plus, all iPhone 15 and 16 models, 16e, 17e, 17 and Air; enclosure on iPhone 17 Pro, 17 Pro Max and iPhone 18.
3. If the flashlight appears on but gives no light, and disconnecting the rear cameras does not restore it, the iPhone 11 field answer points to an IC on the logic board.

Limits

• Older models are not in Apple's flash list: use the boardview of the exact board.

Source: Apple Support - If the camera or flash on your iPhone, iPad or iPod touch isn't working · Apple Support - iPhone troubleshooting camera issues (technician guide: MRI and Camera Image Quality suites, parts by model) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 11 rear cameras and flashlight do not work

1. Confirm: Measure app fails, AR features fail, Portrait mode fails, the sensor is missing from diagnostics.
2. If the rear housing was replaced, first check that the original paired LiDAR sensor was transferred.
3. Remove display, battery, rear camera and shield; take out the faulty sensor.
4. With JC Repair Assistant: unbind and back up, then write the LiDAR data to the programmable replacement sensor.
5. Refit, then verify Portrait mode and Measure distance detection.

Limits

• This is an aftermarket programming method from Repair Wiki, not an Apple procedure; parts history may not show the part as genuine.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to repair iPhone 12 Pro to 14 Pro Max rear camera portrait mode not working (LiDAR) · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone cameras (parts and service history)

1. Settings > General > About > Parts and service history (iPhone 12 and later, iOS 15.2 and later).
2. Genuine: Apple parts and process. Finish Repair: a new genuine camera that still needs Repair Assistant.
3. Unknown: incomplete installation, or the camera is not genuine, not working or not verified; the iPhone still works but trade-in value may be affected.
4. Used (iPhone 15 and later, iOS 18 and later): the camera was installed in another iPhone before.

Limits

• iPhone 18 Pro needs Finish Repair before the camera can be used.

Source: Apple Support - About genuine iPhone cameras (parts and service history)

1. Check the screw just above the camera connector: in the solved iPhone 8 Plus case it touched the connector metal and shorted it to ground; removing it fixed the camera and flash.
2. Look for rubber-pad residue blocking the camera connector contacts.
3. Reseat the camera flex as Apple describes (two fingers, light pressure).

Limits

• In that iPhone 8 Plus thread the camera and flash failed together; treat a dead flash plus dead camera after reassembly as one fault first.

Source: iFixit Answers - iPhone 8 Plus rear camera and flashlight not working (solved: screw above the camera connector) · Apple Support - iPhone troubleshooting camera issues (technician guide: MRI and Camera Image Quality suites, parts by model)

1. The USB controller, not the charging IC, validates the cable: work on the USB controller side first.
2. Measure PP_VAR_USB_RVP (PP_VAR_USB_RVP_TIGRIS_R). On iPhone 8 / X and iPhone 13 / 14 check the 10 Ω RVP resistor: both pads should read about 5 V; voltage on one side only means the resistor is open.
3. Measure PWR_GATE_EN_VBUS_1_VALID: 3.7-5 V expected; 0 V points to a faulty or unpowered USB IC.
4. USB input reference voltages from the guide: Tristar models (iPhone 6 to 6s Plus) PP_5V0_USB and PP_TRISTAR_PIN = 5 V; Hydra (iPhone 7 to 11 series) and Kraken (iPhone 12 to 14 series) PP_VBUS1_E75 = 5 V.

Limits

• The guide covers iPhone 6 to 14; for iPhone 15 and later use the boardview of the exact board.

Source: Repair Wiki - iPhone charging circuit diagnostics guide (Tristar / Hydra / Kraken, Tigris)

1. Wi-Fi on, Airplane Mode off, Connectivity Assist off; if the Wi-Fi setting appears dimmed (greyed out), restart.
2. Remove VPN / security software; check the router, its firmware, and restart router and modem.
3. Reset Network Settings (Settings > General > Transfer or Reset > Reset): it resets all Wi-Fi networks and passwords, cellular, VPN and APN settings.
4. Private Wi-Fi Address (iOS 18): Off uses the hardware address, Fixed, or Rotating (every 2 weeks), per network under Settings > Wi-Fi > (i).
5. Bluetooth: accessory close and in discovery mode, power-cycle and charge it, check Settings > Privacy & Security > Bluetooth, unpair and re-pair, disconnect it from other devices.

Source: Apple Support - If you can't connect to Wi-Fi on your iPhone or iPad · Apple Support - If a Bluetooth accessory won't connect to your iPhone or iPad · Apple Support - About Wi-Fi Assist (now Connectivity Assist) · Apple Support - Use private Wi-Fi addresses on Apple devices

1. A switch that turns on with weak or no networks points to the antennas, not the chip.
2. iPhone 8 / 8 Plus: the Wi-Fi antenna is disconnected during a battery replacement and is easily damaged; check and reconnect it.
3. On iPhone X and later the Wi-Fi module sits on the bottom board (iFixit).

Source: iFixit Troubleshooting - iPhone will not connect to Wi-Fi (greyed-out Wi-Fi = logic board; iPhone 8 antenna)

1. Wi-Fi greyed for about five minutes after boot plus a dead microphone was read as the iPhone 7 series audio-IC fault.
2. The answer adds a D12-G12 jumper next to the usual C12 audio jumper (unconfirmed); follow the Audio page for the audio-IC repair.

Source: iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 Plus microphone and WiFi greyed out (audio IC fault; D12-G12 jumper with C12; unconfirmed)

1. Panic keywords (repair-shop list): AppleBCMWLAN = Wi-Fi / Bluetooth; apcie(wlan) = Wi-Fi; apcie(bt) = Bluetooth; sleep / wake hang is ambiguous (Wi-Fi, codec or amplifiers).
2. iPhone 6 field example: "AppleBCMWLANBusInterfacePCIe::reset() … Failed to enable port" appeared after reflowing nearby touch ICs; heat damage to the Wi-Fi IC was suspected (unconfirmed).
3. Decode the full log in the panic decoder before touching the board.

Source: VCC Board Repairs - Panic log errors list (AppleBCMWLAN, apcie(wlan) / (bt)) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 6 panic AppleBCMWLANBusInterfacePCIe reset / failed to enable port after reflow (unconfirmed)

1. Genuine Apple display (new or from the same model): run Repair Assistant from Parts & Service History. Apple lists the display for iPhone 12 and later; on iPhone 15 and later parts from a device of the same model can be reused.
2. Where Repair Assistant cannot be used: the iFixit answer for an iPhone 14 Pro Max moved the chips that store this data from the old screen to the new one, which needs BGA skill and careful heat to avoid damaging the display.

Limits

• An aftermarket display cannot be linked by Repair Assistant, which works only with genuine Apple parts.

Source: Apple Support - About Repair Assistant (calibration after a part is replaced) · iFixit Answers - Restoration of True Tone after screen replacement (iPhone 14 Pro Max) · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone displays

1. Update or DFU restore first; go to the NAND only if the fault persists.
2. Before writing anything, read and save the original SysConfig (serial, Wi-Fi MAC, Bluetooth MAC): in purple mode on iPhone 8 to X, otherwise read it from the removed original NAND with the programmer first. A NAND without it fails activation.
3. Reheating a corrupted NAND does not fix it: it has to be removed, cleaned, reprogrammed and soldered back. The CPU sits beside the NAND and overheats easily: work with care.
4. Write the original SysConfig to the programmed or replacement NAND, solder it, then restore and activate.

Limits

• User data is lost with a NAND replacement: files on moved storage are inaccessible by Apple's design.
• The reviewed programmer listings stop at iPhone 15 Pro Max (BGA315); support for iPhone 16 and later is not stated.

Source: iFixit - iPhone Kernel Panics (ANS2 = NAND storage) · Repair Wiki - How to recover original SysConfig data from iPhone (6 to 11 Pro Max) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 5s error 4013/2015: can the NAND just be resoldered? · Apple Platform Security - The Secure Enclave (UID fused into the SoC; moved storage is inaccessible) · i2C P15 Pro NAND programmer listing (BGA60 / BGA70 / BGA110 / BGA315 by iPhone model)

1. Update or DFU restore first; go to the NAND only if the fault persists.
2. Before writing anything, read and save the original SysConfig (serial, Wi-Fi MAC, Bluetooth MAC): in purple mode on iPhone 8 to X, otherwise read it from the removed original NAND with the programmer first. A NAND without it fails activation.
3. Reheating a corrupted NAND does not fix it: it has to be removed, cleaned, reprogrammed and soldered back. The CPU sits beside the NAND and overheats easily: work with care.
4. Write the original SysConfig to the programmed or replacement NAND, solder it, then restore and activate.

Limits

• User data is lost with a NAND replacement: files on moved storage are inaccessible by Apple's design.
• The reviewed programmer listings stop at iPhone 15 Pro Max (BGA315); support for iPhone 16 and later is not stated.

Source: iFixit - iPhone Kernel Panics (ANS2 = NAND storage) · Repair Wiki - How to recover original SysConfig data from iPhone (6 to 11 Pro Max) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 5s error 4013/2015: can the NAND just be resoldered? · Apple Platform Security - The Secure Enclave (UID fused into the SoC; moved storage is inaccessible) · i2C P15 Pro NAND programmer listing (BGA60 / BGA70 / BGA110 / BGA315 by iPhone model)

1. Update or DFU restore first; go to the NAND only if the fault persists.
2. Before writing anything, read and save the original SysConfig (serial, Wi-Fi MAC, Bluetooth MAC): in purple mode on iPhone 8 to X, otherwise read it from the removed original NAND with the programmer first. A NAND without it fails activation.
3. Reheating a corrupted NAND does not fix it: it has to be removed, cleaned, reprogrammed and soldered back. The CPU sits beside the NAND and overheats easily: work with care.
4. Write the original SysConfig to the programmed or replacement NAND, solder it, then restore and activate.

Limits

• User data is lost with a NAND replacement: files on moved storage are inaccessible by Apple's design.
• The reviewed programmer listings stop at iPhone 15 Pro Max (BGA315); support for iPhone 16 and later is not stated.

Source: iFixit - iPhone Kernel Panics (ANS2 = NAND storage) · Repair Wiki - How to recover original SysConfig data from iPhone (6 to 11 Pro Max) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 5s error 4013/2015: can the NAND just be resoldered? · Apple Platform Security - The Secure Enclave (UID fused into the SoC; moved storage is inaccessible) · i2C P15 Pro NAND programmer listing (BGA60 / BGA70 / BGA110 / BGA315 by iPhone model)

1. Traditional route (iPhone 6 to 11 Pro Max): remove the original NAND, read the original serial, Wi-Fi MAC and Bluetooth MAC with the programmer, write them back, reinstall.
2. iPhone 8 to X: purple-mode direct recovery pulls the original SysConfig without repeated desoldering.
3. Verify the serial and both MAC addresses in Settings before activation.

Limits

• Write only the phone's own original SysConfig. Changing identifiers is not a repair.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to recover original SysConfig data from iPhone (6 to 11 Pro Max) · JCID - P13 NAND programmer (SysCfg read/write, purple screen, iPhone 8 to 13 Pro Max)

1. Diode mode with the red probe on ground: find which line reads 0. If a line is short anywhere it is short everywhere, so a capacitor on the line is not proof by itself.
2. Lines to check, in the guides' order. iPhone 7: PP_VDD_MAIN, PP_VDD_BOOST, PP_LCM_BL_ANODE / PP_LCM_BL34_ANODE, PP_SPKR1_VBOOST. iPhone 8: PP_VDD_MAIN, PP_VDD_BOOST, PP_DISPLAY_BL_ANODE / PP_DISPLAY_BL34_ANODE, PP_SPKRAMP_TOP_VBOOST. iPhone X: PP_VDD_MAIN, PP_VDD_BOOST, PP_SPKRAMP_TOP_VBOOST.
3. Inject 4 V / 2 A directly into the shorted line and find the hot part with freeze spray or a thermal camera.
4. Injecting through the battery connector (PP_BATT_VCC): the Tigris MOSFET heats instantly because PP_BATT_VCC feeds PP_VDD_MAIN through it (Q2101 on iPhone 7, Q3350 on iPhone 8 / X). It has no ground connection and cannot be the short.
5. Remove the shorted capacitor; the guides say it can be left off rather than replaced, to avoid more heat. Re-measure the line.

Limits

• Line names and designators apply only to the model each guide covers; use the boardview for other models.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 7 that does not turn on · Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 8 that has no power, does not boot · Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone X that does not power on · iFixit Guide - iPhone 13 no power easy solution (PP3V0 NAND short)

1. iPhone X guide: shorted capacitors on PP3V0_NAND, PP0V9_NAND or PP1V8_IO; RAM if PP1V8_S2 or PP1V1_S2 is shorted and the CPU area heats.
2. iPhone 13 guide: PP3V0 NAND is a common line for shorts; power on with a thermal camera watching the NAND area.
3. Remove the coating on the suspect capacitor, confirm low resistance to ground, remove it and re-test the boot current.

Limits

• A NAND or RAM fault (not a capacitor) needs the NAND page and data considerations before any chip work.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone X that does not power on · iFixit Guide - iPhone 13 no power easy solution (PP3V0 NAND short)

1. iPhone X guide: shorted capacitors on PP3V0_NAND, PP0V9_NAND or PP1V8_IO; RAM if PP1V8_S2 or PP1V1_S2 is shorted and the CPU area heats.
2. iPhone 13 guide: PP3V0 NAND is a common line for shorts; power on with a thermal camera watching the NAND area.
3. Remove the coating on the suspect capacitor, confirm low resistance to ground, remove it and re-test the boot current.

Limits

• A NAND or RAM fault (not a capacitor) needs the NAND page and data considerations before any chip work.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone X that does not power on · iFixit Guide - iPhone 13 no power easy solution (PP3V0 NAND short)

1. Diode mode with the red probe on ground: find which line reads 0. If a line is short anywhere it is short everywhere, so a capacitor on the line is not proof by itself.
2. Lines to check, in the guides' order. iPhone 7: PP_VDD_MAIN, PP_VDD_BOOST, PP_LCM_BL_ANODE / PP_LCM_BL34_ANODE, PP_SPKR1_VBOOST. iPhone 8: PP_VDD_MAIN, PP_VDD_BOOST, PP_DISPLAY_BL_ANODE / PP_DISPLAY_BL34_ANODE, PP_SPKRAMP_TOP_VBOOST. iPhone X: PP_VDD_MAIN, PP_VDD_BOOST, PP_SPKRAMP_TOP_VBOOST.
3. Inject 4 V / 2 A directly into the shorted line and find the hot part with freeze spray or a thermal camera.
4. Injecting through the battery connector (PP_BATT_VCC): the Tigris MOSFET heats instantly because PP_BATT_VCC feeds PP_VDD_MAIN through it (Q2101 on iPhone 7, Q3350 on iPhone 8 / X). It has no ground connection and cannot be the short.
5. Remove the shorted capacitor; the guides say it can be left off rather than replaced, to avoid more heat. Re-measure the line.

Limits

• Line names and designators apply only to the model each guide covers; use the boardview for other models.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 7 that does not turn on · Repair Wiki - How to fix an iPhone 8 that has no power, does not boot · Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone X that does not power on · iFixit Guide - iPhone 13 no power easy solution (PP3V0 NAND short)

1. About 2 A or more before the power button is pressed means a main-line short (iPhone 7).
2. Lines that short (iPhone 7): PP_VDD_MAIN most often, also PP_VDD_BOOST, PP_LCM_BL_ANODE, PP_SPKR1_VBOOST.
3. Inject 4 V / 2 A into the shorted line and use freeze spray or a thermal camera. The Tigris MOSFET (Q2101 on iPhone 7, Q3350 on iPhone 8 / X) heats instantly but has no ground connection, so it cannot be the short.
4. The PMIC (U2700 on iPhone 8) often shows lots of heat with the supply on the battery connector but is not the cause of the short.
5. Remove the shorted capacitor; Repair Wiki says it can be left off and the device works, and refitting adds risk.
6. iPhone XR (confirmed case): to split a VDD_MAIN short, remove the bridge R3303 first; the short was then gone.

Limits

• Jessa Jones (iPhone 6): a sudden-death PMIC failure is practically unheard of; rule out the usual main-line causes first.
• Repair Wiki's iPhone X page repeats the iPhone 8 text (U2700, Q3350): confirm designators on an iPhone X boardview.

Source: Repair Wiki - How To Fix an iPhone 7 That Does Not Turn On · Repair Wiki - How To Fix an iPhone 8 That Has No Power / Does Not Boot · Repair Wiki - How To Fix iPhone X That Does Not Power On · iFixit Answers - iPhone XR VDD Main short (R3303 removed, short gone) · iFixit Answers - PMIC issue on iPhone 6 (Jessa Jones: sudden-death PMIC failure unheard of; pads C21 / D21) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 PMIC seems to be failing (PMIC rarely fails; check VDD_MAIN and NAND caps) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 6 PMIC gets warm when charging (shorted C1754 on PP3V0_TRISTAR found)

1. Rails rising and falling together means the PMIC is shutting down or resetting in a loop.
2. Check voltage and diode mode on PMU_TO_SYSTEM_COLD_RESET_L (iPhone 6s), the reset from the PMIC to the CPU.
3. A loop every ~50 ms is invisible on a multimeter; the DC supply showed 0-3 mA swings. Use an oscilloscope on the reset line.
4. In the confirmed iPhone 6s case the fix was replacing the Tristar.

Source: iFixit Answers - iPhone 6s all power rails power up and down (reset line; Tristar replaced, fixed)

1. Clean the board before powering it: liquid left under ICs causes more damage once powered (iPhone 5s thread).
2. iPhone 12 stuck in recovery / diagnostic mode after liquid: measure IO_BUTTON_SIDE_L_1V8_CONN; about 0.6 V instead of 1.8 V points to the PMIC. Repair Wiki rates the PMIC swap hard because the sandwich must be split.
3. Overheating PMIC after liquid with no shorts found: test every output first, do not replace the PMIC blindly (iPhone 6 thread).
4. iPhone 15 Pro stuck at 1% with 0xa1: Repair Wiki ties a bad diode reading or low voltage on the battery connector to a liquid-damaged PMIC; a separate solved case with 0xA1 was the battery. Try a known-good battery first.

Source: iFixit Answers - Capacitors around PMIC shorted (clean liquid-damaged boards before powering) · Repair Wiki - iPhone 12 Stuck In Recovery Mode After Water Damage (PMIC button-line 1.8 V) · iFixit Answers - Water-damaged iPhone 6 dead, PMIC overheating, no shorts found · Repair Wiki - iPhone 15 Pro Stuck at 1% Charging and No Battery Data, 0xa1 panic · iFixit Answers - iPhone 15 Pro (iPhone16,1) 161 (0xA1): battery replaced, fixed

1. Repair Wiki (iPhone 8 Plus): normal pre-boot ramps about 0.020 A → 0.080 A → 0.200 A.
2. A direct jump to 0.200 A suggests the Hydra / Tristar / PMIC path; in that case the Hydra IC was replaced.
3. Compare with the same model's known-good board: these values come from one model and one source.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to Fix an iPhone 8 Plus boot looping on Apple logo and random charging (pre-boot current ramp)

1. The PMIC generates the rails for NAND, SDRAM, CPU, GPU and secondary parts; Tigris makes PP_VCC_MAIN from the battery or Lightning (iPhone 6 thread).
2. Check every output, especially those with coils (high-current rails).
3. A low rail: load current-limiting it, or a defective regulator. Look for the short on that rail first.
4. CPU / GPU / SoC rails read tens of ohms normally (iPhone 6 / 6s threads): low resistance there is not a short unless near zero.
5. After the prompt to boot, current stepping 0 A → 320 mA → 0 A → 1.4 A … points to a shorted capacitor on PP3V0_NAND, PP0V9_NAND or PP1V8_IO; PP1V8_S2 / PP1V1_S2 short with heat above the CPU = RAM (Repair Wiki iPhone 8 / X).
6. XS Max case: start at the PMIC output and follow the line; the PP2V8 short was traced to U4700, and the 1V8 feeding Acorn (U5600) is a different buck output from PP1V8_S2.

Limits

• Lifting buck inductors next to the CPU to isolate the PMIC is risky (iPhone 6s thread).

Source: iFixit Answers - Completely dead iPhone 6 (PMIC rails, Tigris PP_VCC_MAIN) · iFixit Answers - Reading Schematics: overview of main power rails · iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 PMIC seems to be failing (PMIC rarely fails; check VDD_MAIN and NAND caps) · iFixit Answers - No power diagnostic strategies (low rail: load or regulator) · iFixit Answers - Short on PP_CPU, PP_GPU and PP_SOC (low resistance is normal; buck inductors) · Repair Wiki - How To Fix an iPhone 8 That Has No Power / Does Not Boot · Repair Wiki - How To Fix iPhone X That Does Not Power On · iFixit Answers - iPhone XS Max short on PP1V1 and PP2V8 (start at the PMIC output; U4700)

1. Replace only for physical damage or a proven output fault: a crack in the chip and heat coming from the chip itself (iPad Rehab, iPhone 8 / 8 Plus U2700).
2. It is technically hard: underfill and the CPU on the opposite side of the board; send it out if not experienced.
3. iPhone 6 (U1202 thread): about 360-380 °C hot air; heat bleeds into neighbours and underfill can push solder balls out; shield nearby parts and do not braid hard (pads lift).
4. iPhone 6: if pads C21 (45_Buck5_FB) or D21 (BUTTON_TO_AP_MENU_KEY_L) are lost while lifting the PMIC, both must be jumpered.

Limits

• Field experts: the PMIC is the last part to change, after everything downstream (other than a CPU / RAM reball).

Source: iPad Rehab store - iPhone 8 / 8 Plus PMIC U2700 338S00309 (when to replace) · iFixit Answers - Soldering big power IC U1202 (thermal curve, underfill) · iFixit Answers - PMIC issue on iPhone 6 (Jessa Jones: sudden-death PMIC failure unheard of; pads C21 / D21) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 PMIC seems to be failing (PMIC rarely fails; check VDD_MAIN and NAND caps)

1. Clean the board before powering it: liquid left under ICs causes more damage once powered (iPhone 5s thread).
2. iPhone 12 stuck in recovery / diagnostic mode after liquid: measure IO_BUTTON_SIDE_L_1V8_CONN; about 0.6 V instead of 1.8 V points to the PMIC. Repair Wiki rates the PMIC swap hard because the sandwich must be split.
3. Overheating PMIC after liquid with no shorts found: test every output first, do not replace the PMIC blindly (iPhone 6 thread).
4. iPhone 15 Pro stuck at 1% with 0xa1: Repair Wiki ties a bad diode reading or low voltage on the battery connector to a liquid-damaged PMIC; a separate solved case with 0xA1 was the battery. Try a known-good battery first.

Source: iFixit Answers - Capacitors around PMIC shorted (clean liquid-damaged boards before powering) · Repair Wiki - iPhone 12 Stuck In Recovery Mode After Water Damage (PMIC button-line 1.8 V) · iFixit Answers - Water-damaged iPhone 6 dead, PMIC overheating, no shorts found · Repair Wiki - iPhone 15 Pro Stuck at 1% Charging and No Battery Data, 0xa1 panic · iFixit Answers - iPhone 15 Pro (iPhone16,1) 161 (0xA1): battery replaced, fixed

1. Use Update, not Restore.
2. If Update fails and there is no backup, stop before a full restore: the data can only come back by making the original board boot again (board repair), never from a moved NAND.

Limits

• Get the customer's written consent before any restore that erases the phone.

Source: Apple Support - If you see error 9, 4005, 4013 or 4014 when you restore your iPhone · Rossmann Group - iPhone error 1110 data recovery (code not documented by Apple)

1. 13 mini: 0x400 = bottom board / gyroscope communication (Repair Wiki; iPad Rehab lists it as a sandwich issue, mini only).
2. 14 / 14 Plus: 0x20000 = interposer (sandwich) disconnection (Repair Wiki).
3. 14 Pro / 14 Pro Max: 0x20000 = sandwich / gyroscope U7300 communication (Repair Wiki; iPad Rehab: sandwich board issue).
4. 16 / 16 Plus: 0x380000 is read as a sandwich issue by Repair Wiki but as flex faults by another list: rule out the charge-port and wireless flexes first.
5. Why: some NTC temperature circuits run inside the board, so a broken layer joint feeds bad data to the CPU (iPad Rehab). Decode the full log in the panic decoder.

Source: Repair Wiki - iPhone 13 randomly restarts (sensor-array codes) · Repair Wiki - iPhone 14 randomly restarts (sensor-array codes) · Repair Wiki - iPhone 14 Pro randomly restarts (sensor-array codes) · Repair Wiki - iPhone 16 randomly restarts (16 and 16 Plus sensor-array codes) · iPad Rehab (Jessa Jones) - Troubleshooting iPhone reboot problems (sensor-array table; NTC circuits inside the board) · iFixit - iPhone SMC panic assert (sensor-array wiki)

1. Error 4013 on iPhone X: disconnect or swap the earpiece / Face ID sensor flex before anything else; one solved case cleared with the flex disconnected.
2. Temperature warning on 12 Pro Max: Repair Wiki replaces the charge port first, and reballs the RF layer only if it persists.
3. 3-minute restarts: a sensor flex must be plugged in while testing (an unplugged flex also causes the restart); swap with known-good OEM parts first.
4. No touch: try a known-good screen before diode-testing the touch connector.

Source: Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone X that is bootlooping error 4013 · iFixit Answers - iPhone X error 4013 cleared by disconnecting the sensor / earpiece flex (solved by the asker) · Repair Wiki - How to repair iPhone 12 Pro Max fake temperature warning (RF-layer thermistor lines) · iPad Rehab (Jessa Jones) - Troubleshooting iPhone reboot problems (sensor-array table; NTC circuits inside the board) · Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone X that has no touch (top layer separating from the interposer)

1. Remove foam and tape, use a preheating platform; REWA advises beginners against hot air because the board can deform.
2. Separate at the low-melt seam and push the logic board gently with tweezers once the solder is molten. Use the temperature the source gives for that exact model (table above): they range from about 150 to 200 °C.
3. Remove all thermal grease: left behind, it causes pseudo-soldering (REWA).
4. Clean old solder from the pads with an iron and wick (REWA: 365 °C), but do not scrape the pads with copper braid (Jessa Jones).
5. Rebuild missing pads before reballing (12 Pro Max: solder lugs for more than a dozen missing pads).
6. Reball the interposer through a stencil, with a thin metal plate so paste does not run into the gaps; align, reheat and nudge the layers together.

Limits

• CPU, NAND and baseband are underfilled on the XS Max: too much heat bridges under them. The temperature table is each source's own recipe, not a universal profile.
• Paste grade (low vs middle temperature) differs by model in REWA's own pages: low for X-12 and 11 Pro, middle for the 12 and 13 Pro.

Source: iFixit guide (REWA) - iPhone X-12 double-stacked board separation & recombination tips · iFixit News - Microsoldering School, Day Four: splitting logic boards (Jessa Jones; low-melt seams; do not scrape pads with braid) · REWA - iPhone 12 Pro Max overheating issue fixed with soldering lugs (missing pads after a drop) · iFixit Answers - iPhone XS Max does not turn on after heating (low-melt layer joint; CPU, NAND and baseband underfilled) · REWA - iPhone 12 motherboard separation and recombination (middle-temperature solder; 200 °C) · REWA - iPhone 11 Pro motherboard separation (what is on each layer; 170 °C) · iFixit guide (REWA) - iPhone 13 Pro motherboard separation

1. Apple's test: answer a call and cover the top of the display; it should turn off, and turn on again when uncovered.
2. Where it sits (repair guides): iPhone 8 - front camera and sensor cable (with the ALS and a microphone); iPhone X / XS / XR - part of the Face ID front sensors (damage fails Face ID); iPhone 11 and 12 mini - earpiece / front sensor assembly with the ALS and flood illuminator, factory-paired, transferred during a display replacement; iPhone 13 - separated from the old screen and moved to the new one; iPhone 14 Pro - behind the active display.
3. Apple names a part only for the newest models: if the proximity test fails, replace the front camera in all iPhone 17 models and iPhone Air.
4. iPhone 13 to 16 Pro Max (Repair Wiki): causes are liquid damage or an improper / aftermarket flex. A new sensor is paired with a JCID V1SE or V1S Pro programmer (unbind, Activate FPC), then the ECID must match in both columns.
5. iPhone 8 with a greyed speaker button in calls: unplug the front camera flex and test; liquid corrosion on the ALS / proximity sensor is the usual cause.

Limits

• Sources disagree on iPhone 13 and later: shops report Face ID kept after a proximity flex swap; another answer says Face ID is lost; on an iPhone 15 the transferred original kept Face ID but auto-brightness did not return. Keep the original part whenever possible.
• iPhone 11 and 12 mini: a new front sensor assembly fails Face ID (iFixit).

Source: Apple Support - iPhone Troubleshooting Display Issues (proximity, ambient light, compass tests and parts) · iFixit - iPhone 8 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement · iFixit - Why Face ID Not Working After Repair (iPhone X / XS / XR front sensors) · iFixit - iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 12 mini Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 13 Screen Replacement (proximity / ALS transfer, True Tone, Repair Assistant) · TechInsights - iPhone 14 Pro proximity sensor behind the display (teardown) · Repair Wiki - How To Repair iPhone 13 to 16 Pro Max Proximity sensor not working · Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone 8 with Grayed Out Speaker Button During Phone Call · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: replacing the proximity flex did not disable Face ID (shop reports) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: proximity sensor replacement said to lose Face ID (unconfirmed) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 15: front sensor cable must move with the display; Face ID kept, auto-brightness lost

1. Apple's test: answer a call and cover the top of the display; it should turn off, and turn on again when uncovered.
2. Where it sits (repair guides): iPhone 8 - front camera and sensor cable (with the ALS and a microphone); iPhone X / XS / XR - part of the Face ID front sensors (damage fails Face ID); iPhone 11 and 12 mini - earpiece / front sensor assembly with the ALS and flood illuminator, factory-paired, transferred during a display replacement; iPhone 13 - separated from the old screen and moved to the new one; iPhone 14 Pro - behind the active display.
3. Apple names a part only for the newest models: if the proximity test fails, replace the front camera in all iPhone 17 models and iPhone Air.
4. iPhone 13 to 16 Pro Max (Repair Wiki): causes are liquid damage or an improper / aftermarket flex. A new sensor is paired with a JCID V1SE or V1S Pro programmer (unbind, Activate FPC), then the ECID must match in both columns.
5. iPhone 8 with a greyed speaker button in calls: unplug the front camera flex and test; liquid corrosion on the ALS / proximity sensor is the usual cause.

Limits

• Sources disagree on iPhone 13 and later: shops report Face ID kept after a proximity flex swap; another answer says Face ID is lost; on an iPhone 15 the transferred original kept Face ID but auto-brightness did not return. Keep the original part whenever possible.
• iPhone 11 and 12 mini: a new front sensor assembly fails Face ID (iFixit).

Source: Apple Support - iPhone Troubleshooting Display Issues (proximity, ambient light, compass tests and parts) · iFixit - iPhone 8 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement · iFixit - Why Face ID Not Working After Repair (iPhone X / XS / XR front sensors) · iFixit - iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 12 mini Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 13 Screen Replacement (proximity / ALS transfer, True Tone, Repair Assistant) · TechInsights - iPhone 14 Pro proximity sensor behind the display (teardown) · Repair Wiki - How To Repair iPhone 13 to 16 Pro Max Proximity sensor not working · Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone 8 with Grayed Out Speaker Button During Phone Call · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: replacing the proximity flex did not disable Face ID (shop reports) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: proximity sensor replacement said to lose Face ID (unconfirmed) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 15: front sensor cable must move with the display; Face ID kept, auto-brightness lost

1. Check Settings > Accessibility > Display & Text Size > Auto-Brightness is on. True Tone exists on iPhone 8 and later and SE (2nd gen) and later.
2. Read Settings > General > About > Parts and Service History (display: iPhone 11 and later, not SE 2nd / 3rd gen). Apple: with a non-genuine display True Tone might not work and ambient light performance might be lost or degraded.
3. Apple: if the ambient light sensor test fails, replace the display (iPhone 7 and later).
4. Genuine screen on iPhone 12 or later with iOS 18: run Repair Assistant (Settings > General > About > Parts & Service History > Restart & Finish Repair, Wi-Fi, battery above 20%); it installs calibration data and can restore True Tone and auto-brightness.
5. Older iOS or models without Repair Assistant: shops copy the display data from the original screen to the new one with a True Tone programmer (iFixit XS guide; without the original screen the data is read from the logic board).
6. Where the light sensor sits: iPhone 8 - front camera and sensor cable; iPhone 11 / 12 mini - front sensor assembly; iPhone 13 - moved from the old screen; iPhone 15 - behind the screen under the Face ID cut-out; iPhone 15 Pro - moved with the screen on a very fragile cable.

Limits

• iFixit: on iOS 17.6 and earlier True Tone and auto-brightness are disabled after a screen replacement even with an original Apple screen (iPhone 13, 15, 15 Pro guides).

Source: Apple Support - Adjust the brightness and color temperature on your iPhone or iPad (Auto-Brightness, True Tone) · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone displays · Apple Support - iPhone parts and service history · Apple Support - iPhone Troubleshooting Display Issues (proximity, ambient light, compass tests and parts) · Apple Support - Use Repair Assistant to finish an iPhone or iPad repair · MacRumors (2024-09) - iOS 18 Repair Assistant (True Tone and auto-brightness after display repair) · iFixit - How To Restore True Tone After Screen Replacement On iPhone XS (programmer) · iFixit - iPhone 8 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 13 Screen Replacement (proximity / ALS transfer, True Tone, Repair Assistant) · iFixit - iPhone 15 Screen Replacement (ambient light sensor location) · iFixit - iPhone 15 Pro Screen Replacement (ambient light sensor transfer)

1. Check Settings > Accessibility > Display & Text Size > Auto-Brightness is on. True Tone exists on iPhone 8 and later and SE (2nd gen) and later.
2. Read Settings > General > About > Parts and Service History (display: iPhone 11 and later, not SE 2nd / 3rd gen). Apple: with a non-genuine display True Tone might not work and ambient light performance might be lost or degraded.
3. Apple: if the ambient light sensor test fails, replace the display (iPhone 7 and later).
4. Genuine screen on iPhone 12 or later with iOS 18: run Repair Assistant (Settings > General > About > Parts & Service History > Restart & Finish Repair, Wi-Fi, battery above 20%); it installs calibration data and can restore True Tone and auto-brightness.
5. Older iOS or models without Repair Assistant: shops copy the display data from the original screen to the new one with a True Tone programmer (iFixit XS guide; without the original screen the data is read from the logic board).
6. Where the light sensor sits: iPhone 8 - front camera and sensor cable; iPhone 11 / 12 mini - front sensor assembly; iPhone 13 - moved from the old screen; iPhone 15 - behind the screen under the Face ID cut-out; iPhone 15 Pro - moved with the screen on a very fragile cable.

Limits

• iFixit: on iOS 17.6 and earlier True Tone and auto-brightness are disabled after a screen replacement even with an original Apple screen (iPhone 13, 15, 15 Pro guides).

Source: Apple Support - Adjust the brightness and color temperature on your iPhone or iPad (Auto-Brightness, True Tone) · Apple Support - About genuine iPhone displays · Apple Support - iPhone parts and service history · Apple Support - iPhone Troubleshooting Display Issues (proximity, ambient light, compass tests and parts) · Apple Support - Use Repair Assistant to finish an iPhone or iPad repair · MacRumors (2024-09) - iOS 18 Repair Assistant (True Tone and auto-brightness after display repair) · iFixit - How To Restore True Tone After Screen Replacement On iPhone XS (programmer) · iFixit - iPhone 8 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 13 Screen Replacement (proximity / ALS transfer, True Tone, Repair Assistant) · iFixit - iPhone 15 Screen Replacement (ambient light sensor location) · iFixit - iPhone 15 Pro Screen Replacement (ambient light sensor transfer)

1. Remove magnetic cases, mounts and nearby magnets: Apple says magnetic or environmental interference affects accuracy.
2. If the compass test still fails, Apple replaces the display in iPhone 11 Pro, iPhone 11 Pro Max, all iPhone 12 models, all iPhone 13 models, all iPhone 14 models, iPhone 15, iPhone 15 Plus, iPhone 15 Pro, iPhone 17 and iPhone 17e.
3. The main microphone in all iPhone 16 models, iPhone 16e and iPhone 17 Pro; the enclosure in iPhone 17 Pro Max; the auxiliary microphone in iPhone Air.

Limits

• iPhone 15 Pro Max and models before iPhone 11 Pro are not in Apple's list: no part is named for them.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone Troubleshooting Display Issues (proximity, ambient light, compass tests and parts)

1. Turn Portrait Orientation Lock off in Control Center and test in an app that rotates; some apps do not support rotation.
2. Apple lists the three-axis gyro and accelerometer as sensors (iPhone 8) and a high dynamic range gyro and high-g accelerometer (iPhone 17).
3. The accelerometer / gyroscope is a Bosch Sensortec part on the logic board (iFixit chip ID: iPhone 13 Pro, iPhone 16); iPhone 13 Pro also has an Alps compass chip on the board.
4. So no flex swap fixes a dead motion sensor: it is a board-level repair or board replacement.

Limits

• One unconfirmed answer (iPhone 8 Plus) blames ultrasonic cleaning for damaged motion sensors: do not clean boards with sensors in an ultrasonic bath without knowing the risk.

Source: Apple Support - Rotate the screen on your iPhone or iPod touch · Apple Support - iPhone 8 technical specifications (sensors) · Apple - iPhone 17 technical specifications (sensors) · iFixit - iPhone 13 Pro Full Chip ID (accelerometer / gyroscope, compass on the logic board) · iFixit - iPhone 16 Chip ID (accelerometer and gyroscope on the main board) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 8 Plus no rotation / compass after ultrasonic cleaning (chosen answer, unconfirmed)

1. Restart (force restart if needed).
2. Ring/Silent switch toward the display (Ring), or Action button set to Ring; call the iPhone from another phone and feel for ringtone and vibration.
3. Switch to Silent and call again: it should vibrate without the ringtone.
4. Open the iPhone per the repair manual and inspect the internal flex cables and connectors for damage.
5. Replace the Taptic Engine. iFixit (iPhone 16): rattly or intermittent vibration also points to the Taptic Engine.

Limits

• iPhone 7 / 8 (unconfirmed answers): a replacement Taptic Engine may need its data copied from the original with a programmer; keep the original.

Source: Apple Support - iPhone Troubleshooting Mechanical Issues (vibration / Taptic Engine) · iFixit - iPhone 16 Taptic Engine Replacement · iFixit Answers - iPhone 7 / 8 Taptic Engine may be serialised to the board (unconfirmed)

1. Open the newest panic-full log (Settings > Privacy & Security > Analytics & Improvements > Analytics Data) and decode it in the panic decoder; read every name after "Missing sensor(s)".
2. Repair Wiki (iPhone 12): Prs0 or Mic1 = charging-port flex; TG0B or TG0V = battery. All sensor flexes must be plugged in while testing, otherwise it will restart.
3. Confirmed iPhone 11 case: "Missing sensor(s): mic2" after a rear-glass job was fixed with an original lightning (charging) cable.

Source: Repair Wiki - How To Fix an iPhone 12 That Randomly Restarts · iFixit Answers - iPhone 11 "Missing sensor(s): mic2" restarts: original lightning cable fitted, fixed

1. Apple's test: answer a call and cover the top of the display; it should turn off, and turn on again when uncovered.
2. Where it sits (repair guides): iPhone 8 - front camera and sensor cable (with the ALS and a microphone); iPhone X / XS / XR - part of the Face ID front sensors (damage fails Face ID); iPhone 11 and 12 mini - earpiece / front sensor assembly with the ALS and flood illuminator, factory-paired, transferred during a display replacement; iPhone 13 - separated from the old screen and moved to the new one; iPhone 14 Pro - behind the active display.
3. Apple names a part only for the newest models: if the proximity test fails, replace the front camera in all iPhone 17 models and iPhone Air.
4. iPhone 13 to 16 Pro Max (Repair Wiki): causes are liquid damage or an improper / aftermarket flex. A new sensor is paired with a JCID V1SE or V1S Pro programmer (unbind, Activate FPC), then the ECID must match in both columns.
5. iPhone 8 with a greyed speaker button in calls: unplug the front camera flex and test; liquid corrosion on the ALS / proximity sensor is the usual cause.

Limits

• Sources disagree on iPhone 13 and later: shops report Face ID kept after a proximity flex swap; another answer says Face ID is lost; on an iPhone 15 the transferred original kept Face ID but auto-brightness did not return. Keep the original part whenever possible.
• iPhone 11 and 12 mini: a new front sensor assembly fails Face ID (iFixit).

Source: Apple Support - iPhone Troubleshooting Display Issues (proximity, ambient light, compass tests and parts) · iFixit - iPhone 8 Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement · iFixit - Why Face ID Not Working After Repair (iPhone X / XS / XR front sensors) · iFixit - iPhone 11 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 12 mini Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement · iFixit - iPhone 13 Screen Replacement (proximity / ALS transfer, True Tone, Repair Assistant) · TechInsights - iPhone 14 Pro proximity sensor behind the display (teardown) · Repair Wiki - How To Repair iPhone 13 to 16 Pro Max Proximity sensor not working · Repair Wiki - How to fix iPhone 8 with Grayed Out Speaker Button During Phone Call · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: replacing the proximity flex did not disable Face ID (shop reports) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 13: proximity sensor replacement said to lose Face ID (unconfirmed) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 15: front sensor cable must move with the display; Face ID kept, auto-brightness lost

1. Windows: open the Apple Devices app, connect with a USB cable, tap Trust on the iPhone, check the device appears in the app sidebar.
2. Mac: connect, click Allow on "Allow accessory to connect?", tap Trust, then look in the Finder sidebar (View > Show Sidebar).
3. Still not recognised: another cable (it must support data and charging), another USB port or computer.
4. Check VPN and third-party security software (Mac) or software conflicts (Windows); update the computer OS and iOS.
5. USB alerts in iTunes (connection reset, timed out): connect directly without hubs, cases, battery packs or keyboards, and unplug other USB devices.

Source: Apple Support - If your computer doesn't recognize your iPhone or iPad · Apple Support - Resolve USB-related alerts in iTunes (connection reset, timed out, errors 2001-2011)

1. Restart AMDS: close iTunes and disconnect, Win+R services.msc, Apple Mobile Device Service > Properties, Startup type Automatic, Stop then Start, restart the PC.
2. If AMDS will not start, third-party security software may block it: correct date and time, one security product, allow Apple services; remove it temporarily if needed.
3. Driver (iTunes install, community tip): Device Manager > the Apple device > Update driver > Browse > Have Disk > C:\Program Files\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\Drivers > usbaapl64.inf.
4. Field fix confirmed by several users: uninstall the Apple device in Device Manager with "remove software" ticked, or reinstall iTunes / iCloud / Bonjour, then reconnect.

Limits

• Apple's current "not recognised" article no longer includes the driver steps; they come from an Apple Community user tip.

Source: Apple Support - Restart the Apple Mobile Device Service (AMDS) on Windows · Apple Support - Resolve issues between iCloud for Windows / iTunes and security software · Apple Community User Tip - iOS device not showing in iTunes for Windows (pick usbaapl64.inf) · iFixit Answers - iPhone charges but the PC shows nothing (reinstall iTunes / remove the device driver; confirmed by several users) · Apple Support - If your computer doesn't recognize your iPhone or iPad

1. Trusted computers can sync and access photos, videos, contacts and other content; iOS 16 and later also ask at backup.
2. No prompt: update the computer, reconnect, restart both devices, then Reset Location & Privacy so every computer asks again.
3. USB Restricted Mode: unlock first to connect to a computer or accessory; charging works while locked.
4. Settings > Privacy & Security > Security > Wired Accessories: USB-C models have Always Ask / Ask for New / Automatically Allow When Unlocked / Always Allow; Lightning models have the last two. Storage accessories always need an unlock.
5. Apple security guide: after an hour locked only accessories used in the last 30 days connect; after three days without use, data is blocked as soon as it locks.

Source: Apple Support - About the "Trust This Computer" alert · Apple Support - Allow USB and other accessories to connect to your iPhone or iPad · Apple Platform Security - Activating data connections securely (USB Restricted Mode timing)

1. Trusted computers can sync and access photos, videos, contacts and other content; iOS 16 and later also ask at backup.
2. No prompt: update the computer, reconnect, restart both devices, then Reset Location & Privacy so every computer asks again.
3. USB Restricted Mode: unlock first to connect to a computer or accessory; charging works while locked.
4. Settings > Privacy & Security > Security > Wired Accessories: USB-C models have Always Ask / Ask for New / Automatically Allow When Unlocked / Always Allow; Lightning models have the last two. Storage accessories always need an unlock.
5. Apple security guide: after an hour locked only accessories used in the last 30 days connect; after three days without use, data is blocked as soon as it locks.

Source: Apple Support - About the "Trust This Computer" alert · Apple Support - Allow USB and other accessories to connect to your iPhone or iPad · Apple Platform Security - Activating data connections securely (USB Restricted Mode timing)

1. USB 2 (up to 480Mb/s): iPhone 15, 16, 16e, 17 and iPhone Air (spec pages).
2. USB 3 (up to 10Gb/s): iPhone 15 Pro, 16 Pro and 17 Pro models, with a USB 3 cable rated 10Gb/s.
3. The cable in the box supports charging and USB 2 speeds only.

Limits

• No Apple spec page reviewed gives a USB speed for Lightning iPhones; do not quote one.

Source: Apple Support - Charge and connect with the USB-C connector on your iPhone · Apple Support - iPhone 15 technical specifications (USB 2) · Apple Support - iPhone 15 Pro technical specifications (USB 3, 10Gb/s) · Apple Support - iPhone 16 technical specifications (USB 2) · Apple Support - iPhone 16 Pro technical specifications (USB 3, 10Gb/s) · Apple Support - iPhone 16e technical specifications (USB 2) · Apple - iPhone 17 technical specifications (USB 2) · Apple - iPhone 17 Pro technical specifications (USB 3, 10Gb/s) · Apple Support - iPhone Air technical specifications (USB 2)

1. Windows: open the Apple Devices app, connect with a USB cable, tap Trust on the iPhone, check the device appears in the app sidebar.
2. Mac: connect, click Allow on "Allow accessory to connect?", tap Trust, then look in the Finder sidebar (View > Show Sidebar).
3. Still not recognised: another cable (it must support data and charging), another USB port or computer.
4. Check VPN and third-party security software (Mac) or software conflicts (Windows); update the computer OS and iOS.
5. USB alerts in iTunes (connection reset, timed out): connect directly without hubs, cases, battery packs or keyboards, and unplug other USB devices.

Source: Apple Support - If your computer doesn't recognize your iPhone or iPad · Apple Support - Resolve USB-related alerts in iTunes (connection reset, timed out, errors 2001-2011)

1. First prove it: two known data cables, two computers, unlocked and trusted, and no Apple USB device (05AC) appears.
2. Lightning models (field threads): genuine cables → charge port → Tristar. The Tristar talks to the chip in the cable and controls the port protection; cheap cables are blamed for damaging it (shop blog).
3. Tristar part numbers (shop blog): 1610A2 iPhone 6 / 6 Plus; 1610A3 iPhone SE / 6s / 6s Plus; 1610A3B iPhone 7 / 7 Plus.
4. One commenter traced a no-data iPhone 6 to a loose internal ribbon cable: reseat the flexes before board work.

Limits

• None of these hardware fixes was confirmed by the person who asked; no data-line designators are published for USB-C iPhones in the reviewed sources.

Source: iFixit Answers - iPhone 6 charges on the wall but no computer detects it (Tristar / charge port suggested, unconfirmed) · iFixit Answers - iPhone 6s not recognised by PC (port, then Tristar; unconfirmed) · Disc Depot - Apple Tristar U2 repair: how cheap Lightning cables cause damage (Tristar part numbers by model) · The Apple Wiki - USB Product IDs (05AC; DFU 0x1227, recovery 0x1280-0x1283)

1. USB IDs (vendor 05AC): DFU 0x1227, recovery 0x1280-0x1283, normal mode 0x12A8 (iPhone 5 and later).
2. usbmuxd does not handle recovery / DFU devices; libirecovery does. A tool built on usbmuxd will not list a phone in DFU even though it is connected.
3. If the ID appears but the restore drops with 9 / 4005 / 4013 / 4014, Apple: update, force restart, another cable and computer (then the Restore page).

Source: The Apple Wiki - USB Product IDs (05AC; DFU 0x1227, recovery 0x1280-0x1283) · libimobiledevice usbmuxd issue 230 - usbmuxd does not handle recovery / DFU devices · Apple Support - If you see error 9, 4005, 4013 or 4014 when you restore your iPhone